Got a used ski another Yamaha FX HO cruiser
Has the MR1 engine and low hours nice ski
Towed Kaneohe bay on a big day already with it worked fine and good power
This is the HO one 160 hp my old one was just an FX 140 hp which had plenty of power
Only thing that I did notice was the fuel goes faster with the extra 20 HP :) faster is not always better
Otherwise pretty happy with this one going to take good care of and get some waves this year too
Saturday, October 3, 2015
Yamaha FX fuel smell sputters on idle and runs poorly
Hi all,
had this problem with my ski
We took it out and after starting it up noticed it did not want to run too smoothly at low speed and had fuel gas smell.
I ran the ski that day anyway and had it opened up seemed to be running fine but still at low speed and idle it was not smooth, had gas smell still.
First of all start with the basics here
Did you have the water hose on without the engine running?
If you did you probably pumped water into the engine through the exhaust.
You will now need to take the spark plugs out and turn the engine over to get the water out of the cylinders, you may have to do this a few times be careful not to cross thread the spark plugs and use aluminum anti seize on the spark plug threads to prevent them from seizing later
Do not over tighten the spark plugs
Are the spark plugs clean and in good shape? You could have a fouled plug
Are the spark plug wires firing I mean is there spark?
make sure that there's no oil around the spark plug wire shorting it out or another problem w spark
My plugs were recently changed so I suspected something else....
Later when I got home I took the plugs out, there was allot of gas on one of the spark plugs, I removed the coil wires from the area and turned the engine over, allot of gas came out of that cylinder also. Compression was good.
Took out the injectors with fuel line connected one of the injectors was staying on constantly squirting fuel into the cylinder.
WARNING be careful here with spark! gasoline fire explosion hazard especially if there is gas squirting around when you start and ignition spark coils are connected dangerous!!!!
Recommend disconnecting the coils if your going to have fuel spraying and the ignition on turning the engine over.
So I first swapped the injector to another one and the same cylinder had fuel constantly coming out of the injector. Back traced the wire all of the way to the ECU only thing it could possibly be was the ECU in my case since I was reading the voltage coming out of the computer to the injector.
I bought a new ECU from Powersports plus online in MI (?) that was the most reasonable one I could find but still a very expensive part so don't fry yours.
I had considered buying a used ECM for $400-500 but since I use my ski out away from shore allot in the ocean not in a lake or river where there's shore nearby... I decided to go with the new one instead.
Side note from below- afterinstalling the new ECU I sealed the box and the grommets around the wires going into the box with silicone sealer to keep water out of there.
After new ECM- the injector that was staying on was behaving fine and the engine ran 100% better
Ski History-
I bought this ski used and it needed a new motor, the original motor sat up with salt water and was pretty far gone. The cylinder head had oxidation in the combustion chambers of the head, the head was not usable, the cylinder had corrosion etching in the cylinder walls and would need boring.
I had Snyder's machine shop in Waipahu bore the block out to the new bore oversized pistons .100 the biggest we could go to clear up the cylinders
They also measured and polished the crankshaft and rods, install the new pistons on the rods
After I got everything back I did the short block and ordered a remanufactured cylinder heard from SBT in Florida, it looked great and was fine.
To make a long story short(er) I did not take apart the electrical box
On this ski the electrical box has the ECU engine control unit or computer starter solenoid and other goodies inside.
Apparently there was a small amount of water inside of the electrical box which may have shorted out the ECU, this later after about 40 hours caused the one injector to stay open or constantly squirting fuel inside of the cylinder.
If you do get water inside of your ski sink it or turn it over in water fills up the engine area you may want to just check this electrical box.
After installing the new ECU I sealed the box and the grommets around the wires going into the box with silicone sealer to keep water out of there.
had this problem with my ski
We took it out and after starting it up noticed it did not want to run too smoothly at low speed and had fuel gas smell.
I ran the ski that day anyway and had it opened up seemed to be running fine but still at low speed and idle it was not smooth, had gas smell still.
First of all start with the basics here
Did you have the water hose on without the engine running?
If you did you probably pumped water into the engine through the exhaust.
You will now need to take the spark plugs out and turn the engine over to get the water out of the cylinders, you may have to do this a few times be careful not to cross thread the spark plugs and use aluminum anti seize on the spark plug threads to prevent them from seizing later
Do not over tighten the spark plugs
Are the spark plugs clean and in good shape? You could have a fouled plug
Are the spark plug wires firing I mean is there spark?
make sure that there's no oil around the spark plug wire shorting it out or another problem w spark
My plugs were recently changed so I suspected something else....
Later when I got home I took the plugs out, there was allot of gas on one of the spark plugs, I removed the coil wires from the area and turned the engine over, allot of gas came out of that cylinder also. Compression was good.
Took out the injectors with fuel line connected one of the injectors was staying on constantly squirting fuel into the cylinder.
WARNING be careful here with spark! gasoline fire explosion hazard especially if there is gas squirting around when you start and ignition spark coils are connected dangerous!!!!
Recommend disconnecting the coils if your going to have fuel spraying and the ignition on turning the engine over.
So I first swapped the injector to another one and the same cylinder had fuel constantly coming out of the injector. Back traced the wire all of the way to the ECU only thing it could possibly be was the ECU in my case since I was reading the voltage coming out of the computer to the injector.
I bought a new ECU from Powersports plus online in MI (?) that was the most reasonable one I could find but still a very expensive part so don't fry yours.
I had considered buying a used ECM for $400-500 but since I use my ski out away from shore allot in the ocean not in a lake or river where there's shore nearby... I decided to go with the new one instead.
Side note from below- afterinstalling the new ECU I sealed the box and the grommets around the wires going into the box with silicone sealer to keep water out of there.
After new ECM- the injector that was staying on was behaving fine and the engine ran 100% better
Ski History-
I bought this ski used and it needed a new motor, the original motor sat up with salt water and was pretty far gone. The cylinder head had oxidation in the combustion chambers of the head, the head was not usable, the cylinder had corrosion etching in the cylinder walls and would need boring.
I had Snyder's machine shop in Waipahu bore the block out to the new bore oversized pistons .100 the biggest we could go to clear up the cylinders
They also measured and polished the crankshaft and rods, install the new pistons on the rods
After I got everything back I did the short block and ordered a remanufactured cylinder heard from SBT in Florida, it looked great and was fine.
To make a long story short(er) I did not take apart the electrical box
On this ski the electrical box has the ECU engine control unit or computer starter solenoid and other goodies inside.
Apparently there was a small amount of water inside of the electrical box which may have shorted out the ECU, this later after about 40 hours caused the one injector to stay open or constantly squirting fuel inside of the cylinder.
If you do get water inside of your ski sink it or turn it over in water fills up the engine area you may want to just check this electrical box.
After installing the new ECU I sealed the box and the grommets around the wires going into the box with silicone sealer to keep water out of there.
Temperature overheat problem yamaha waverunner FX
Okay overview of the Yamaha waverunner problem I had
Temperature beeper coming on and overheating engine shuts off
Things to check
Thermostat opening ?
You can take the hose off that goes to the back and see if the thermostat is opening
When the engine reached temperature on the hose this should open and water should come out
Bad Temperature engine sensor
there are two the one under the exhaust on the right side if facing front of the ski is the engine safety shut off if the engine overheats this sensor will keep you from ruining your engine from overheating it.
Check the basics first before suspecting this and you can also see it operation with the YDS software
The other temperature sensor is for the computer to get air fuel ratio
Restriction in pickup or hose to engine-
The pickup has a strainer to keep the larger particles from entering the engine
Possibly something could be lodged in this strainer or the hose blocking the water from entering the engine
Sand in engine block from running in sandy areas
Sand can accumulate in the engine around the cylinders in the cooling jacket
This can cause improper cooling, possibly the sand can get hardened and stuck in this area
Advise not to run in the sand where the jet pump can suck up the sand into the engine
I did the "back flush" to ensure that there was no sand or other debris in the hoses or strainer
My problem was the worst of all of them, the engine had a bad rod bearing possibly from a previous problem with a bad oil filter.
The rod bearing was causing friction but only under a load would it cause the engine to shut down on over heat.
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE TEMPERATURE SENOR UNPLUGGED you can cause permanent damage if there is another problem!
I initially suspected the sensor since after unplugging the sensor the engine would run fine but later the engine overheated and shut down smelled burnt and some damage to the crankshaft and the rod and the engine locked up
It could have been repaired with a lower case, used crankshaft and a rod but I did not have the time
Sad... this engine had been rebuilt a few years back and ran very good until the fatal day that the oil filter rusted around where it is crimped (near the gasket)
It even ran another season almost 6 sessions after this
This rust started an oil leak around the base of the filter and later while out in the ocean leaked all of the oil into the bilge!
Temperature beeper coming on and overheating engine shuts off
Things to check
Thermostat opening ?
You can take the hose off that goes to the back and see if the thermostat is opening
When the engine reached temperature on the hose this should open and water should come out
Bad Temperature engine sensor
there are two the one under the exhaust on the right side if facing front of the ski is the engine safety shut off if the engine overheats this sensor will keep you from ruining your engine from overheating it.
Check the basics first before suspecting this and you can also see it operation with the YDS software
The other temperature sensor is for the computer to get air fuel ratio
Restriction in pickup or hose to engine-
The pickup has a strainer to keep the larger particles from entering the engine
Possibly something could be lodged in this strainer or the hose blocking the water from entering the engine
Sand in engine block from running in sandy areas
Sand can accumulate in the engine around the cylinders in the cooling jacket
This can cause improper cooling, possibly the sand can get hardened and stuck in this area
Advise not to run in the sand where the jet pump can suck up the sand into the engine
I did the "back flush" to ensure that there was no sand or other debris in the hoses or strainer
My problem was the worst of all of them, the engine had a bad rod bearing possibly from a previous problem with a bad oil filter.
The rod bearing was causing friction but only under a load would it cause the engine to shut down on over heat.
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE TEMPERATURE SENOR UNPLUGGED you can cause permanent damage if there is another problem!
I initially suspected the sensor since after unplugging the sensor the engine would run fine but later the engine overheated and shut down smelled burnt and some damage to the crankshaft and the rod and the engine locked up
It could have been repaired with a lower case, used crankshaft and a rod but I did not have the time
Sad... this engine had been rebuilt a few years back and ran very good until the fatal day that the oil filter rusted around where it is crimped (near the gasket)
It even ran another season almost 6 sessions after this
This rust started an oil leak around the base of the filter and later while out in the ocean leaked all of the oil into the bilge!
Saturday, February 21, 2015
2004 Yamaha FX 140 specs
2004 Yamaha WaveRunner® FX Cruiser FX140 WR1000AC
2004 Yamaha WaveRunner® FX Cruiser Specifications
IDENTIFICATION
Model Type 3-4 Passenger
BASE MSRP(US) $9,499.00
Warranty 12
Insurance
Get a Quote
ENGINE:
Engine Brand Name MR-1™
Engine Type Longitudinal In-Line
Cylinders 4
Engine Stroke 4-Stroke
Horsepower (bhp/kW) 140 / 104.5
Horsepower RPM 10000
Cooling Water (Open Loop)
Valves 20
Valves Per Cylinder 5
Valve Configuration DOHC
Bore (mm/in) 74 / 2.92
Stroke (mm/in) 58 / 2.29
Displacement (cc/ci) 998 / 60.9
Compression Ratio 11.4:1
Starter Electric
Fuel Requirements Regular
Fuel Type Gas
Turbocharged No
Supercharged No
Fuel Injector Yes
Fuel Injector Size (mm) 40
Carburetor No
Carburetion Type Fuel Injected
Speed Governor Yes
Kill Switch / Tether Cord Standard
Sound Reduction Brand Yamaha Sound Suppression System (YSSS)
TRANSMISSION:
Transmission Type Reduction Gear Box
Reverse Yes
Throttle Type Finger
STEERING:
Steering Brand Off-Throttle Assisted Steering™ (OTS)
Steering Type Manual
Steering Assist System Yes
Steering Control Handlebar
Tilt Steering Standard
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:
Length (ft) 10.96
Width (in/mm) 48.4 / 1230
Height (in/mm) 45.7 / 1160
Length (ft/ft) 11
Length (ft/in) 0
Dry Weight (lbs/kg) 826 / 375
Payload Capacity (lbs/kgs) 529 / 240
Fuel Capacity (gal/l) 18.5 / 70
Storage Capacity (cuft/gal/l) 4.1 / 26.42 / 116.3
Engine Displacement to Weight (cc) 1.21
SEATS:
Seat Type Two-Piece
Adjustable No
Seat Material Vinyl
Seat Location Driver and Passenger
Number Of Seats 3
Backrest Type Fixed
Backrest Location Driver and Passenger
Grab Rail or Strap Standard
EXTERIOR:
Body Material Sheet Molded Compound (SMC)
Hull Material Sheet Molded Compound (SMC)
Hull Type Progressive Stepped V
Floor Board Location Driver and Passenger
Skid Resistant Yes
Hand Grips Standard
Handlebars Standard
Adjustable No
Boarding Step Standard
INSTRUMENTATION:
Digital Instrumentation Standard
Tachometer Standard
Oil Pressure Gauge Standard
Speedometer Standard
Hour Meter Standard
Temperature Warning Type Light
Fuel Level Warning Type Light
Voltage Meter Standard
Trim Indicator Type Gauge
PRICING:
Warranty (Months) 12
IDENTIFICATION:
Generic Type (Primary) 3-Passenger
Manufacturer Country Japan
Manufacturer Recommend Minimum Age 16
NADATrimID 18549
Display Name WaveRunner® FX Cruiser
TOWING & HAULING:
Tow Hook Standard
DRIVE LINE:
Jet Pump Type Axial Flow
Jet Pump Diameter (in/mm) 6.1 / 155
Jet Pump Reduction-Nozzle Diameter (in/mm) 3.4 / 86.8
Impeller Material Stainless Steel
Number Of Blades 3
Pitch (degrees) 17
Trim System Brand Quick Shift Trim System (QSTS)
Trim System Type Manual
Number Of Trim Positions 5
CONVENIENCE:
Engine Immobilizer Standard
Adjustable Handlebars Standard
Bilge System Type Automatic Siphon / Electric Pump
STORAGE:
Underseat Storage Standard
Number Of Cupholders 2
Glove Box / Dash Storage Standard
Front Storage Well Standard
GLASS:
Rearview Mirrors Standard
PAINT & FINISH:
Paint Standard
Continued:
Troubleshooting my Yamaha wave runner FX140 WR1000AC running hot 4 stroke engine
(may apply to some 2 stroke skis as well)
If the engine is running ok on the hose but not in the water may be a water flow problem.
Pee holes / Tell Tales / water hole on side of hull check
Pee hole /tell tale on left some water cones out when you rev it on hose, at ramp did not see anything (?) lower revs
Pee hole / tell tale on right no water comes out on hose
I heard right pee hole was a pressure relief for the thermostat so some slight water with steam may come out while underway. I did not have steam coming out of my right tell tale
Checking the temperature sensors
You have three temperature sensors, two are for overheating safety and one is for the engine fuel injection system to get proper fuel air mixture for the fuel injection system.
The safety high temperature sensors (one on the exhaust and one on the engine) turns on the overheat light and beeper and puts the engine in a limp home mode and will drop the rpms so you can go slow in and or shut off the engine .
When the high temperature light comes on you can disconnect the exhaust and or the engine temperature sensor where it plugs in at .
If the alarm goes away either
1- the sensor is bad or
2-you are overheating your exhaust possibly lack of cooling water.
Suggest that you use an infrared thermometer to see what the actual temperature of the exhaust or engine is, disconnecting the sensor if you have a problem could cause serious damage to the motor or exhaust system
You can check the sensor by removing it and putting it in a pan of boiling water and monitoring when it turns off and on by temperature the procedure is in the Yamaha technical manual
it will read open until it gets to the high temperature then it will close (normally open)
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Cleaning salt deposits out of engine
*(Ideally if I find the blockage would take it apart and clean it) and I use salt away or joy dish soap from time to time but...
Doing some research on cleaning out salt deposits using vinegar mixed with water.
Some people put their outboard in a bucket with several gallons of vinegar and water and run the motor to flush out the salt corrosion then flush out the vinegar mix
OR use a pump with a bucket to circulate the vinegar solution into the motor and back into a bucket.
Went to Costco got some vinegar and going to first try soaking it marinade the beast may try the pump with the bucket to circulate the mix...that's if back flush does not work or flush out after soaking it
Caution Do not be tempted to use muriatic acid or HCI will eat rubber and everything else
I called the South Seas Yamaha dealer here yesterday and they said "one month wait for diagnostic check" $140
ordered the YDS Yamaha Diagnostic System software and cable yesterday $70 and I have the factory manual but not much about cooling troubleshooting in there
Troubleshooting my Yamaha wave runner FX140 WR1000AC running hot 4 stroke engine
(may apply to some 2 stroke skis as well)
If the engine is running ok on the hose but not in the water may be a water flow problem.
Pee holes / Tell Tales / water hole on side of hull check
Pee hole /tell tale on left some water cones out when you rev it on hose, at ramp did not see anything (?) lower revs
Pee hole / tell tale on right no water comes out on hose
I heard right pee hole was a pressure relief for the thermostat so some slight water with steam may come out while underway. I did not have steam coming out of my right tell tale
Checking the temperature sensors
You have three temperature sensors, two are for overheating safety and one is for the engine fuel injection system to get proper fuel air mixture for the fuel injection system.
The safety high temperature sensors (one on the exhaust and one on the engine) turns on the overheat light and beeper and puts the engine in a limp home mode and will drop the rpms so you can go slow in and or shut off the engine .
When the high temperature light comes on you can disconnect the exhaust and or the engine temperature sensor where it plugs in at .
If the alarm goes away either
1- the sensor is bad or
2-you are overheating your exhaust possibly lack of cooling water.
Suggest that you use an infrared thermometer to see what the actual temperature of the exhaust or engine is, disconnecting the sensor if you have a problem could cause serious damage to the motor or exhaust system
You can check the sensor by removing it and putting it in a pan of boiling water and monitoring when it turns off and on by temperature the procedure is in the Yamaha technical manual
it will read open until it gets to the high temperature then it will close (normally open)
Cleaning salt deposits out of engine
*(Ideally if I find the blockage would take it apart and clean it) and I use salt away or joy dish soap from time to time but...
Doing some research on cleaning out salt deposits using vinegar mixed with water.
Some people put their outboard in a bucket with several gallons of vinegar and water and run the motor to flush out the salt corrosion then flush out the vinegar mix
OR use a pump with a bucket to circulate the vinegar solution into the motor and back into a bucket.
Went to Costco got some vinegar and going to first try soaking it marinade the beast may try the pump with the bucket to circulate the mix...that's if back flush does not work or flush out after soaking it
Caution Do not be tempted to use muriatic acid or HCI will eat rubber and everything else
I called the South Seas Yamaha dealer here yesterday and they said "one month wait for diagnostic check" $140
ordered the YDS Yamaha Diagnostic System software and cable yesterday $70 and I have the factory manual but not much about cooling troubleshooting in there
Yamaha waverunner FX140 WR1000AC runs hot
I took out my ski yesterday in kbay on the way out high temp
light and beeper came on waited went slow same thing but took longer
I thought maybe thermostat but tested it opened ok now I'm
thinking some trash in inlet line to engine, since no water from pee hole on
left
Did this once a year ago then cleared up
I'm thinking the hole or hose from impeller to engine
stopped up
Last night flushed a few if the hoses and no blockage but
the supply line super hard to get to I think either hole is blocked or hose
down there
On the water hose running no water from weep hole on left
and
I did run it a while last week no overheat on water hose in
yard about 15 minutes
Putting thermostat back clean the housing was corroded a
little but don't think it was problem
South seas didn't stock it anyway
Well last night I put the thermostat back in and hooked it
up to the hoses and ran it on the water hose
After about 15 minutes it ran hot again, otherwise the ski
runs fine maybe a little rough idle otherwise is smooth running
Temperature comes up slowly so it could be circulation
I checked it with an infra red thermometer and the head came
up from 120 to 175 degrees while on the hose
I did check the inlet hose it's clear and the other return
hoses I back flushed
Looking on the forums they say could be:
bad water temperature sensor (exhaust or engine block)
blocked jet pump intake (not on hose)
blocked passages inside of engine
blocked hoses
sand inside around cylinder coolant jackets
blocked exhaust
or something worse- mechanical
Cracked jet pump housing or cone spun
head gasket /crack head or other
I would think if I had a head gasket bad it would be running
hot quickly,and maybe missing steam coming out exhaust so I doubt that
I have not taken out
the plugs but it is possible that compression is going into the exhaust but I
don't think so
I'm debating getting a newer ski anyway, although will still
have to fix this one, and I don't really use it allot either
My friend has a 2006 Kawasaki 200 LX but I like Yamaha s
better
I can take off the pressure regulator on side of block
make sure that there
is good water flow coming to all of the parts maybe take off the muffler first
see if it's blocked
I did "search the forums" some for some answers
and did learn a few things but still have not found the problem.(yet)
We took out the ski the other day about 5 minutes from the
ramp the high temperature alarm came on and the beeper
went into limp mode. Let it cool and tried a few more times
same thing, then idled back to the boat ramp.
The ski did this one other time last year and then "it
went away".
Thanks John for the suggestion to back flush it good idea. I
pushed water back into the block side of thermostat hose other night.
I did take the thermostat off when we got home and it tested
ok, cleaned the housing and put it back on after 15 minutes running on the hose
it ran hot again. I then got my infrared thermometer out and checked the head
temp while running on hose slowly came up from 140 to 175 about where the alarm
would come on so I shut it down.
There may be some restriction in the cooling system
somewhere. I did take off hoses and pushed water through them seemed clear
From what I read on the forums running hot some possible
causes are:
Blocked pump jet pump engine inlet strainer or supply
hose *(maybe not on water hose)
blocked hoses
bad temperature sensors
blocked water passages
blocked exhaust
sand around cylinders
impeller clearance
**(not on water hose)
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